The long time rumor has been confirmed: Matthew Williamson is leaving Italian label Emilio Pucci when his three year contract expires next month, and Norwegian designer Peter Dundas will be the new artistic director. Dundas paid his dues working behind the curtains at flamboyant labels Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix and Roberto Cavalli, and is now ready to take center stage at equally-rococo brand Emilio Pucci. “Peter Dundas, who is one of the most promising designers of his generation, possesses a creative talent and personality that fit with Pucci’s spirit and with its colourful and modern identity,” Pucci said in a statement.

 

 

 

 

The designer will develop a “complete universe” of ready-to-wear and accessories for Pucci’s 47 stores around the world. Dundas, who previously designed for Emanuel Ungaro and is currently a consultant designer at French fur company Revillon, is to take over at Pucci on October 1st, from his base in Florence, Italy. His first collection will be shown in February 2009. —Melissa Alvarado Sierra

 

 

Good bye, Williamson                               Hello, Dundas 

  

 

Manhattan is beamy, striking and gorgeous, as are the designs on the 2009 fashion week runways. From frail, lighter-than-air dresses to bondage-enveloped numbers, there are abounding options for spring attiring.  

 

  

 

But outside the Bryan Park tents, showgoers were putting some serious fashion styles to work. Take it from tastemaker Scott Schuman, who hawks the streets of NYC looking for the most stylish beings and then posts pictures of them on his well-praised blog, The Sartotialist. Here’s a glimpse of the fashion savvy attendees.  —Melissa Alvarado Sierra

 

  

 

 

 A stampede of mismatch heaven took place at the Marc Jacobs show held at the Lexington Avenue Armory, where the audience enjoyed an awe-inspiring, all Americana treat. Known for his dramatics, New York’s home-grown fashion genius described his collection as “familiar but fresh,” and he could not have said it better. The essence of the collection was an experimental voyage that embraced decades past. 

 

  

 

Skirts with cascading and dangling pleats, made of metallic Lurex fabric and brocade-like prints were remarkable, especially when composed in color pallets that didn’t make typical sense. Mary Poppins-like hats and multilayered looks were heavily accessorized to create an image of a woman that, strangely enough, looked incredibly stylish and put together. The waistcoats, back-drap skirts, menswear suits, gaucho pants, metallic tweed jackets, and chunky necklaces were part of the delicious mash-up, along with George Gershwin’s “Rhapsody in Blue” as background music.

 

 

 

Michael Fink, from Saks Fifth Avenue, said the collection was very timely. All fashion retailers know that customers are now more aware of their finances and will only spend their money on outstanding pieces. “There was nothing basic on that runway,” Mr. Fink said. “Nobody wants a basic from Saks.” 

 

 

 

 All the erratic prints,  the “hall of mirrors” as part of the runway, the espadrille-meets-stiletto hybrids, and the “cracked, fragmented and broke” coats, as Jacobs calls them, worked together to dazzle everyone. Marc Jacobs did it again—- and like a magician, the designer cast his spell all over New York Fashion Week. —Melissa Alvarado Sierra

 

The queen of boho chic takes the reigns at Celine… 

 

    

 

After a two-year hiatus, British designer Phoebe Philo returns to the fashion world by taking the helm at French fashion house Celine, as Creative Director. Credited with Chloé’s revival, along with college buddy Stella McCartney, Philo seems to fully understand what customers want right now. ” In the current climate customers are looking for something that will get them interested and excited about buying again. I want to create clothes, shoes, bags and accessories that are relevant to right now — modern, exciting designs that women will desire and appreciate,” the designer told WWD.  

 

 

 

  Celine is an LVMH brand, and Pierre-Yves Roussel, CEO of LVMH’s fashion division commented on Philo’s new venture, “by giving her Celine, we’re giving her a platform to express her vision. For Celine, which is a bit more sophisticated as a brand, the fit is very good in terms of her style, her personality and where she is in terms of her own development.”   

 

  

 

Celine is in desperate need of a boost after having two Creative Directors with less than spectacular results. The brand has not seen much success since Michael Kors’s splendid collections back in the 90’s. With Philo’s comeback, Celine has the chance of becoming the sough-after brand it once was.   

 

 

  The 35-year-old designer and mother of two will debut her first collection for Celine in March, for autumn/winter 2009. —Melissa Alvarado Sierra 

 

 

Ladies and gentlemen, it’s NY Fashion Week. And let me start with one of my favorite designers, Diane von Furstenberg. This woman of many facets, recently inducted into the Seventh Avenue Fashion Walk of Fame, was inspired by former Vogue editor Diana Vreeland when creating her Spring 09 collection. In a celebration of ‘rock goddesses’, von Furstenberg presented an array of floral prints, sequins and flimsy chiffons. “She walks where she wants her life to go…firmly on the heels of her wooden wedges with a slouchy bag swung over her shoulder or a sharp trousee clutched with attitude,” the designer said of her muse in her notes to the stylists. 

 

 

 Diana Vreeland—- 

 

The show consisted mostly of breezy dresses with ruffles and lace, along with super-sized bags decorated with beads and floral motifs. Actress Veruschka von Lehndorff served as inspiration for the models’ makeup and Gucci Westman, head makeup artist, achieved the icon’s signature look by using glistening, light pink lip color and white eyeliner.

 

   Veruschka—- 

 

The models strut down the runway with their hair flowing loosely, decorated with flowers and feathers. Patchwork dresses, sequined tuxedo shorts, and pieces embellished with leaves, butterflies, flowers and other frenzied images gave this collection an idiosyncratic glamour worthy of the ‘Summer of Love’. Hippie chic is back, and von Furstenberg seems to lead the way. “The new freedom I hope is in the air,” said the designer. And it certainly was.